Nanocarriers as Active Ingredients Enhancers in the Cosmetic Industry—The European and North America Regulation Challenges
Abstract
:1. Introduction
2. Nanotechnology in Cosmetology
3. Nanocarriers
3.1. Nanoemulsions
3.2. Liposomes
3.3. Solid Lipid Nanoparticles
3.4. Nanostructured Lipid Carriers
3.5. Niosomes
3.6. Nanocapsules
3.7. Nanospheres
3.8. Gold and Silver Nanoparticles
3.9. Nanocrystals
3.10. Dendrimers
3.11. Cubosomes
3.12. Hydrogels
3.13. Fullerenes/Buckyballs
3.14. Polymersomes
3.15. Carbon Nanotubes
3.16. Nanosponges
4. Active Ingredients in Cosmetic Nanocarriers
4.1. Retinoids
4.2. Antioxidants
4.3. Enzymes
4.4. Proteins and Peptides
4.5. Ceramides
4.6. Hyaluronic Acid
4.7. Organic UV Filters
Nanocarriers | Active Ingredients | Cosmetic Use | References |
---|---|---|---|
Polymeric micelles | Curcumin | Whitening | [183] |
Nanostructured lipid carriers | Passiflora edulis seeds oil | Whitening | [184] |
Niosomes | Quercetin | Whitening | [109] |
Niosomes | Arbutin | Whitening | [110] |
Nano sponges | Azelaic acid | Whitening | [145] |
Nanostructured lipid carriers | Orobol | Anti-ageing | [185] |
Nanoliposomes | Carnosine Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 Acetyl hexapeptide-3 | Anti-ageing | [186] |
Nanoemulsions | Astaxanthin | Anti-ageing | [187] |
Dendrimers | Resveratrol | Anti-ageing | [135] |
Solid lipid nanoparticles Nanostructured lipid carriers Nanoemulsion | Lutein | Anti-ageing | [188] |
Nanostructured lipid carriers | Finasteride | Anti-alopecia | [189] |
Nanoemulsions | Minoxidil | Anti-alopecia | [190] |
Nanocapsules | Hinokitiol | Anti-alopecia | [191] |
Lipid nanoparticles | Hinokitiol | Anti-alopecia | [192] |
SLN-Silica particles | Octyl methoxycinnamate | Sunscreen | [193] |
Nanostructured lipid carriers | Quercetin | Sunscreen | [104] |
Gold nanoparticles | Snail slime | Sunscreen | [194] |
Cellulose nanocrystals | Diethyl sinapate | Sunscreen | [195] |
Nanoemulsions | Sunflower oil | Sunscreen | [77] |
Nanocapsules | Octyl dimethyl para-aminobenzoic acid | Sunscreen | [119] |
Liposomes Nanostructured lipid carriers Solid lipid nanoparticles | Avobenzone Omega-3 | UV blocking sunscreen | [196] |
Cubosomes | Erythromycin | Anti-acne | [136] |
Microemulsions | Curcumin | Anti-acne | [197] |
Microemulsions | Thai basil oils | Anti-acne | [198] |
Liposomes | Lauric acid | Anti-acne | [199] |
Keratin: Zein nanoparticles | Fragrances (linalool and menthol) | Hair cosmetic | [200] |
5. Application and Efficacy of Active Ingredients in Cosmetic Nanocarriers
6. Limitations of Nanocarriers
7. Cosmetics Regulation in Europe and the USA
7.1. European Regulations
7.2. USA Regulations
7.3. Other Countries
8. Conclusions and Future Perspective
Author Contributions
Funding
Institutional Review Board Statement
Informed Consent Statement
Data Availability Statement
Acknowledgments
Conflicts of Interest
References
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Carriers | Composition | Size Range | References |
---|---|---|---|
Nanoemulsions | Nanoscale droplets comped by oil, surfactant, water cosurfactant | 50–200 nm | [22,64] |
Liposomes | Vesicular structures with an aqueous core enclosed by one or more bilayer membranes composed of natural or synthetic phospholipids. Liposomes also have cholesterol in their composition | 20 nm–2 µm | [64,65] |
Solid lipid nanoparticles | Composed by a shell of a single layer with a lipoic core made from complex glyceride mixtures, purified triglycerides, and waxes; They are stabilized by polymers or surfactants | 50–1000 nm | [22,65] |
Nanostructured lipid carriers | Structures that present an aqueous and oily phase | 10–1000 nm | [66] |
Niosomes | Vesicles with a bilayer structure synthesized from nonionic surfactants possessing hydrophilic and hydrophobic terminals; are conjugated with cholesterol and polyethene glycol | 100 nm–2 µm | [22,65] |
Nanocapsules | They have a solid and liquid core, where the active ingredients are protected and entrapped by a polymeric membrane which can be natural or synthetic | 100–500 nm | [65,67] |
Nanospheres | Crystalline or amorphous spherical nanoparticles having a core-shelled structure | 10–200 nm | [64] |
Nanogold | Nanoparticles of gold | 5–400 nm | [64] |
Nanosilver | Nanoparticles of silver | 1–100 nm | [64] |
Nanocrystals | Aggregates of atoms that combine into a “cluster” (Chavda) | 10–400 nm | [65,68] |
Dendrimers | Three-dimensional synthetic polymers are micellar, globular, radially symmetric and monodisperse. | 2–200 nm | [64] |
Cubosomes | They are prepared by self-assembly of liquid crystalline particles of some surfactants when combined with water and a microstructure at a specific ratio; Microstructure of cubosomes is obtained by the ratio of water, surfactant system and aqueous lipids | 10–500 nm | [64,69] |
Hydrogels | Polymeric networks with physical and chemical cross-links, expanding without dissolving in water or other biological fluids. | 10–100 nm | [65,70] |
Fullerenes/Buckyballs | They are composed by 60 atoms of carbon | 0.4–1.6 nm | [71,72] |
Polymersomes | They are formed by self-assemble copolymer amphiphiles blocks, consisting in artificial vesicles which have an aqueous cavity in the center | 100 nm–few µm | [65,73] |
Carbon nanotubes | Empty cylindrical fibers formed by graphene walls that are rolled “chiral” angles | 0.7–50 nm | [65] |
Nanosponges | These are free-flowing particles and have a 3D network of degradable polyester | <1 µm | [64,74] |
Active Ingredient | Limitations | References |
---|---|---|
Retinoids | Chemical structure exposes the retinoids to photopolymerization, photodegradation, photooxidation and photoisomerization; Some of them cause sensitization and skin irritation | [150] |
Antioxidants | Limited stability in topical preparations | [151] |
Enzymes | The native structure is destabilized by many common ingredients, which strongly affects enzymatic activity; their high molecular weight limit enzymes skin penetration | [25] |
Peptides | Susceptible to degradation and low permeability | [25] |
Ceramides | Low solubility | [152] |
Hyaluronic acid | Hyaluronic acid with high molecular weight and hydrophilicity reveals poor penetration | [153] |
Organic UV filters | May cause many adverse effects due to the production of toxic metabolites and ROS, which can be triggered by percutaneous accumulation and absorption | [154,155] |
Country | Definition | Rules | References |
---|---|---|---|
Japan | Product that are not a cosmetic or a drug, is a “quasi-drugs” | Ingredients need to be pre-approved before including them into the “quasi-drugs” classification and require pre-approval before introduced them into the market | [223] |
Korea | Korea Food and Drug Administration (KFDA) classifies them as “functional cosmetics” | KFDA is responsible for improving the safety and evaluation of functional cosmetics | [224] |
Thailand | According to the used ingredients in cosmeceuticals, they are classified as “controlled cosmetics” | the notification from the FDA for the use of this products is mandatory | [225] |
New Zealand | The category in which cosmeceuticals are accommodated is called “related products” | The regulation applied in New Zealand is similar to the EU legislation. The specifics of claims regulation and nanomaterials are the same and must be notified to Environmental Protection Authority (EPA) | [226] |
Australia | In Australia, goods can be categorized based on claims about the product and product composition; the borderline products are classified as “therapeutic goods” | Only approved ingredients are used for the manufacture of these products. The Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods is the organization that registers "therapeutic goods". | [227] |
USA | In the U.S., there are three categories: cosmetics, drugs, and over-the-counter medications. There is not a legal definition of cosmeceuticals according to FDA. | Classification by the U.S. FDA depends on the claims of the products. | [222] |
European Union | The EU does not have a category to be called cosmeceuticals, but it has stringent law in which any claims made by the company are required to be submitted as a proof | The European regulation requires that cosmetic manufacturers declare all the nanoparticles/nanomaterials present in their products. They are required to add the word nano to the ingredient list. Regulation (EC) No.1223/2009. | [26] |
China | “cosmetics for special use” | Similar to the FDA, but more rigorous, the China Food and Drug Administration (CFDA) requires that all foreign cosmetic products, before their release into the Chinese market, perform a safety evaluation comprising of several tests such as microbiology, toxicity, long-term toxicity, and carcinogenic. The manufacturers are also required to conduct trials to ensure their safety for humans. The cosmetics (imported) are divided into two main categories: special use cosmetics and ordinary ones. As a result, each category needs a distinct type of permit from the State Food and Drug Administration (SFDA). Finally, the Health Administration Department of the State Council—SFDA—must issue hygiene or record-kee** permit for the marketing of cosmetics. | [228] |
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Oliveira, C.; Coelho, C.; Teixeira, J.A.; Ferreira-Santos, P.; Botelho, C.M. Nanocarriers as Active Ingredients Enhancers in the Cosmetic Industry—The European and North America Regulation Challenges. Molecules 2022, 27, 1669. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules27051669
Oliveira C, Coelho C, Teixeira JA, Ferreira-Santos P, Botelho CM. Nanocarriers as Active Ingredients Enhancers in the Cosmetic Industry—The European and North America Regulation Challenges. Molecules. 2022; 27(5):1669. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules27051669
Chicago/Turabian StyleOliveira, Cristiana, Cristina Coelho, José A. Teixeira, Pedro Ferreira-Santos, and Claudia M. Botelho. 2022. "Nanocarriers as Active Ingredients Enhancers in the Cosmetic Industry—The European and North America Regulation Challenges" Molecules 27, no. 5: 1669. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules27051669